Our feature this month is pairing wine with sushi. For quite
some time, and still today, most believe that Sake is
sushi's natural partner, but a recent culinary revolution
begs to differ. Even an authority at the Japan Prestige Sake
Association in New York agrees, sushi (by definition fish
and rice) can negate the delicate subtleties in good
sake, as it's also made from rice. That said, sake is a
great match for sashimi, as it's just slices of raw fish. We
did our research on Sake as well, scroll down for that eye
opening experience.
So wine and sushi-- not such a radical idea. Many good
sushi bars have an equally good wine list. And many sushi
bars are really opening up the wine list to match up with
other experimental items on the menu. So what are the rules?
Basically, there really aren't any. Cooked vs. raw salmon is
night and day regarding flavor, so traditional wine pairings
just don't really apply. But herein lies the good news, you
are free to forge your own rules. Think about what you know
about sushi, and then make some mental match ups with your
favorite wines. Then have some real fun in putting your
ideas to a taste test.
All that said, there are a handful of opinions out there,
and some things we've found true. For instance Pinot Noir is
an excellent match -- especially with salmon and orange
fleshed fish. Spicy rolls (cooked or raw) are nicely
balanced by a good Gewurtztraminer or Riesling. Crisp white
wines are great for cleansing the palate, and some experts
agree that the inexplicable quality of raw fish (umami) cancels and
rounds out the tannins in wine. One thing is certain, you
should always find what you like, and enjoy the
exploration.
We had a great time testing our theories in this video
at Kenobi Sushi Bar and Restaurant in Austin at the
Arboretum. We want to thank them again for working with
us, and urge you to visit them.
www.kenobiaustin.com |
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WINE
RECOMMENDATIONS FOR PAIRING WITH SUSHI-- |
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Left to Right:
Kim Crawford Pinot Gris
New Zealand
Seven Daughters White Blend
Washington
Firesteed Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
Oregon
Gloria Ferrer Carneros Pinot Noir
California
Evolution
Oregon |
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SAKE-- What comes to mind for the
majority of us is a little heated cup of a liquor like
substance. With all there is to choose from and experience
regarding Sake, this is the equivalent of ordering a Miller
Lite at a German beer fest. Did you know sake can be fruity?
Did you know it can be creamy and pair well with chocolate
cake? How about that the vast majority of sakes should be
enjoyed somewhere between room temp and cold? Sake education
has made great strides recently in the US due to a handful
of devotees and importers, and many are discovering what
Japan and China have known for thousands of years.
So, what is Sake?
Sake is a fermented beverage made from rice, water, yeast
and Koji. It's closer in technical definition to a beer,
because rice is a grain, but drinks far more like wine. The
rice itself is the key to the quality level, each grain is
milled (polished) to remove the outer layers of fat and
protein. The level of milling
determines the grade of sake.. Mill the rice down to 70% of
it's original size and could have a Junmai, mill it down to
at least 50% and you have rice suitable for the highest
quality grade: Daiginjo. Although without the Koji, sake
could not be made. Koji is a simple mold that creates
enzymes that convert rice starch molecules into fermentable
and non-fermentable sugars. Like both beer and wine, sake
uses yeast to aid in fermentation and to add a great deal of
aroma and flavor. Each strain of yeast (and there are
several) offers vastly different characteristics. And of
course the freshness of ingredients make all the difference,
good water + good rice equals good sake.
Other things to know:
The grades of sake are illustrated on the right, but there
are other stylistic variations. Genshu stands for cask
strength (undiluted) usually 18-21% alcohol by volume.
Nigori, which literally means cloudy, is the old style
sake that predates modern filtration and can also be
referred to as unfiltered. This style is creamy and packed
with flavor as much of the rice and yeast material is left
in, and can also go by the moniker of Pearl. This style also
has a relatively short shelf life. In fact, sake in general
should be consumed within a year of bottling. Unlike wine
there is no vintage. Also different from wine is that
once opened, sake will last up to two months in the
refrigerator because it oxides much slower. Sakes are
bottled in dark colored glass to minimize it's exposure to
light, keeping it fresh longer. Blue glass is the best at
this. You may also have combinations of the
grades, like a Junmai Ginjo, which means that it must
contain only the 4 key ingredients and be milled to at least
60%. Or Nigori Genshu, which would indicate that it's cask
strength and unfiltered.
Trying them out:
So now hopefully you have a better understanding of the
types of sake and are ready to dive into trying some of the
different brands. A few we highly recommend include: Murai,
Momokowa, and Moonstone, but there are several. Sake doesn't
have to break the bank, although the good stuff won't (or
shouldn't) be that cheap. And keep in mind that there is
versatility in matching it up with food. You don't have to
stick to an Asian menu, there is literally a sake out there
every food. Do keep in mind that you want to match the
intensity of the food with the sake, just like wine. And
remember, good sake is almost always served chilled!
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GRADES OF SAKE 101:
Futsuu: Base level sake
without any special designation, and usually labeled
generically as "sake" in the U.S.
Honjozo: Has a small amount of alcohol added to
heighten the aromas and enhance specific qualities.
Junmai: Made with only rice, water, koji, and yeast.
The rice must be milled to 70%.
Ginjo: Made with rice milled to 60% and extra
handwork and care. Equivalent to what "reserve" designations
mean in the wine world.
Daiginjo: The finest quality sake. Handmade in small
batches, and milled to at least 50% usually using the best
quality rice. This designation is the peak of the
sakemaster's craft.
Nihonshu-do (Sake Meter
Value)
This is the measure of the density of sake. A dry sake
will have a positive (+) SMV, and a fruity sake with
have a negative (-) number. Fruity is also often
referred to as sweet..
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